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Engine Quick Troubleshooting Guides Part I:

Started by clyde, October 21, 2003, 05:01:48 PM

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mykel

mukang mali ata ako, yung crank po ba is yung redondo?

mukang mali ata akon ng observations
based kasi sa mga nabasa ko:

http://www.samarins.com/diagnose/index.html
QuoteOn most newer vehicles with fuel injection, when you switch ignition ON the engine computer runs a fuel pump for a few seconds to pump initial gas pressure. You can hear it from the gas tank area - it's like a buzzing sound. It's not very loud and the gas pump works only for a second or two after switching the ignition ON, so you may need someone's assistance checking this. If there is no buzzing sound, something might be wrong with the fuel pump or its electrical circuit - bring your vehicle to the garage or a dealer.

most probably bago mag start, after i on yung key, hintay konti ng 2-3 secs meron maririnig
nag parang umandar = fuel pump po ba iyon?

Conan®

Quote from: carbon on October 29, 2007, 01:03:17 PM
too complex for a newbie like me

So stop replying with your senseless posts that don't contribute anything! :violent1: :protest:

bajourn

Mga sir, ask ko lang kung ano ung ingay na nagmumula sa engine once i turn the key on ACC. Sounds like something is turning/rotating pero maingay. Ano po ba pedeng gawin dun?

Saka ask ko n den kung ano ung kelangan palitan na pang-ilalim sa likod kasi mejo makalampag na.
I already replaced both shock mounting on the front kaya wala ng kalampag. Anyway, i have a mitsu gli 96.
Salamats! :newbie:

clyde

could be rad/aux fan na nakarekta. else, have someone turn the key while you observe/check upfront with the hood popped.

kalampag sa pang-ilalim would usually be the result of worn out suspension parts. shocks, bushings, etc. have your suking mekaniko do a quick test drive.

bajourn

Quote from: clyde on December 24, 2009, 07:43:48 AM
could be rad/aux fan na nakarekta. else, have someone turn the key while you observe/check upfront with the hood popped.

kalampag sa pang-ilalim would usually be the result of worn out suspension parts. shocks, bushings, etc. have your suking mekaniko do a quick test drive.

Thanks clyde. i'll sure have it looked up. kakabili ko palang kac nung auto. Though we had a diesel unit before but having a gasoline type of auto is really new for me. Di ko pa alam kung paano ang performance at troubleshooting ng makina.

About the thing na maingay, i believe its really the fan causing the noise. Pano ba solution dun? WD40 maybe?
And one more thing, do u think that its best to replace all 4 sparkplugs pag change oil?
Can u also give me some brands of sparkplug that is suitable for a Lancer GLi 96 at kung anong klaseng oil.

And can u also give me some pointers on what part should i focus on lalo na pag secondhand car. Ano-ano ung mga important na bagay that i should watch out for?

nhyht25

Good Morning po sa Inyo. Mag tatanong lang po ako kung ano po kya ang problem ng Isuzu Dmax (manual transmission) 4 x 4 na ginagamit ko. Ang problem po kasi ay parang walang lakas yung primera nya o first gear at hirap bumatak. Regular naman ang change oil nya at napalitan na ang fuel filter nya. Kapag nkarekta naman sya eh pag ng shift ako ng 5th gear hirap syang abutin ang 120kph. By the way dito ako sa middle east at ito kasi ang ginagamit ko. ang top speed ko lng is 120kph pero yung ibang Dmax nmin eh umaabot ng 160kph. So mga expert tulong naman kung ano ang maari ko pang i pa check. Salamat

enrico

#21
 :-[Mga bossing, Nagpalit ako ng fuel pump na nasa loob ng gas tank. Pero hindi ko pa sinusubukan ikabit ang wiring connector nito. Ang Tanong ko lang po ay wala bang nage-generate na spark ito sa fuel pump motor nito na nakalubog ang motor nitosa gas tank? Kinakabahan ako baka pag switch on ko ay parang bomba ito na sumabog.  :-\( Any opinion please! :newbie:

nhorlen

Quote from: clyde on October 21, 2003, 05:01:48 PM
I. Engine will not rotate when attempting to start : [/b]

1. Battery terminal connections loose or corroded.
2. Battery discharged or faulty
3. Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in starting circuit.
4. Starter solenoid faulty.
5. Starter motor faulty.
6. Ignition switch faulty.
7. Automatic transaxle/Continously variable Transaxle (CVT) not completely engaged in Park or clutch not completely depressed.
8. Starter pinion or flywheel teeth worn or broken.

II. Engine rotates but will not start: [/b]

1. Fuel tank empty.
2. Battery discharged.
3. Battery terminal connections loose or corodded.
4. Leaking fuel injectors, faulty fuel pump, pressure regulator,  etc.
5. Fuel not reaching fuel rail.
6. Ignition components damp or damaged.
7. Worn, faulty or incorrect gapped sparkplugs.
8. Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit.
9. Loose distributor is changing ignition timing.
10. Broken, loose or disconnected wires at the ignition coil.

III. Engine hard to start when cold:[/b]

1. Battery discharged or low.
2. Malfunctioning fuel system.
3. Injector(s) leaking.
4, Distributor rotor carbon tracked.

IV. Engine hard to start when hot: [/b]

1. Air filter clogged.
2. Fuel not reaching the fuel injection system.
3. Corodded battery connections, especially ground.

V. Starter noisy or excessively rough in engagement: [/b]

1. Pinion or flywheel gear teeth worn or broken.
2. Starter mounting bolts loose or missing.

VI. Engine starts but stops immediately: [/b]

1. Loose or faulty electrical connections at distributor, coil or alternator.
2. Insufficient fuel reaching the fuel injector(s).
3. Vacuum leak at the gasket between the intake manifold and throttle body.

VII. Oil puddle under engine: [/b]

1. Oil pan gasket and/or oil pan drain bolt washer leaking.
2. Oil pressure sending unit leaking.
3. Cylinder head covers leaking.
4. Engine oil seals leaking.

VIII. Engine lopes while idling or idles erratically:[/b]

1. Vacuum leakage.
2. Leaking EGR valve.
3. Air filter clogged.
4. Fuel pump not delivering sufficient fuel to the fuel injection system.
5. Leaking head gasket.
6. Timing belt and/or pulleys worn
7. Camshaft lobes worn.

IX. Engine misses at idle speed: [/b]

1. Spark plugs worn or not gapped properly.
2. Faulty spark plug wires.
3. Vaccum leaks.
4. Incorrect ignition timing.
5. Uneven or low compression.
6. Fault in the fuel injection or engine control system.

X. Engine misses throughout driving speed range:[/b]

1. Fuel filter clogged and /or impurities in the fuel system.
2. Low fuel pressure.
3. Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs.
4. Incorrect ignition timing.
5. Cracked distributor cap, disconnected distributor wires or damaged distributor components.
6. Leaking spark plug wires.
7. Faulty emission system components.
8. Low or uneven comperssion perssures.
9. Weak or faulty ignition system.
10. Vacuum leak in fuel injection system, intake manifold, intake air control valve (IACV) or vacuum hoses.

XI. Engine stumbles on acceleration:[/b]

1. Spark plugs fouled.
2. Fuel injection system faulty.
3. Fuel filter clogged.
4. Incorrect ignition timing.
5. Intake manifold leak.


Sir tanong ko lang kung ano ang problem pag ang engine ayaw nang bumatak or walang arangkada. Hanggang 40 nalang ang pinakamabilis kong andar. Diesel engine ito

Thanks in advance ;)

jaymayola

Quote from: clyde on October 21, 2003, 05:01:48 PM
I. Engine will not rotate when attempting to start : [/b]

1. Battery terminal connections loose or corroded.
2. Battery discharged or faulty
3. Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in starting circuit.
4. Starter solenoid faulty.
5. Starter motor faulty.
6. Ignition switch faulty.
7. Automatic transaxle/Continously variable Transaxle (CVT) not completely engaged in Park or clutch not completely depressed.
8. Starter pinion or flywheel teeth worn or broken.

II. Engine rotates but will not start: [/b]

1. Fuel tank empty.
2. Battery discharged.
3. Battery terminal connections loose or corodded.
4. Leaking fuel injectors, faulty fuel pump, pressure regulator,  etc.
5. Fuel not reaching fuel rail.
6. Ignition components damp or damaged.
7. Worn, faulty or incorrect gapped sparkplugs.
8. Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit.
9. Loose distributor is changing ignition timing.
10. Broken, loose or disconnected wires at the ignition coil.

III. Engine hard to start when cold:[/b]

1. Battery discharged or low.
2. Malfunctioning fuel system.
3. Injector(s) leaking.
4, Distributor rotor carbon tracked.

IV. Engine hard to start when hot: [/b]

1. Air filter clogged.
2. Fuel not reaching the fuel injection system.
3. Corodded battery connections, especially ground.

V. Starter noisy or excessively rough in engagement: [/b]

1. Pinion or flywheel gear teeth worn or broken.
2. Starter mounting bolts loose or missing.

VI. Engine starts but stops immediately: [/b]

1. Loose or faulty electrical connections at distributor, coil or alternator.
2. Insufficient fuel reaching the fuel injector(s).
3. Vacuum leak at the gasket between the intake manifold and throttle body.

VII. Oil puddle under engine: [/b]

1. Oil pan gasket and/or oil pan drain bolt washer leaking.
2. Oil pressure sending unit leaking.
3. Cylinder head covers leaking.
4. Engine oil seals leaking.

VIII. Engine lopes while idling or idles erratically:[/b]

1. Vacuum leakage.
2. Leaking EGR valve.
3. Air filter clogged.
4. Fuel pump not delivering sufficient fuel to the fuel injection system.
5. Leaking head gasket.
6. Timing belt and/or pulleys worn
7. Camshaft lobes worn.

IX. Engine misses at idle speed: [/b]

1. Spark plugs worn or not gapped properly.
2. Faulty spark plug wires.
3. Vaccum leaks.
4. Incorrect ignition timing.
5. Uneven or low compression.
6. Fault in the fuel injection or engine control system.

X. Engine misses throughout driving speed range:[/b]

1. Fuel filter clogged and /or impurities in the fuel system.
2. Low fuel pressure.
3. Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs.
4. Incorrect ignition timing.
5. Cracked distributor cap, disconnected distributor wires or damaged distributor components.
6. Leaking spark plug wires.
7. Faulty emission system components.
8. Low or uneven comperssion perssures.
9. Weak or faulty ignition system.
10. Vacuum leak in fuel injection system, intake manifold, intake air control valve (IACV) or vacuum hoses.

XI. Engine stumbles on acceleration:[/b]

1. Spark plugs fouled.
2. Fuel injection system faulty.
3. Fuel filter clogged.
4. Incorrect ignition timing.
5. Intake manifold leak.



sir ask ko lng may moisture sa cylinder head ko... kakapalit ko lng kc head daw problem pero still the same result.... i think galing sa radiator yng water... hnd naman naghalo yng water and oil....den pansin ko gasket na ginamit 4d55 db po dapat 4d56 din...may pinag kaiba ba yn??

R_A

anong gagawin ko pag yung mga wires ko may lumalabas na parang pulbos na blue?

Licky Yo

I have my isuzu trooper 4jx1 1999 model. There's a problem with the diesel fuel mixing with the radiator. Please help.

jm_jav21

I have a mitsubishi lancer 1998 model, when I start the engine it usually shakes like the engine does not receive enough fuel or electricity, paano kayo po ito?

jm_jav21

Awesome thread. lots of useful info. Thanks for this.

rasher2cool

Hi Sir,

I am hearing a scratching sound from the clutch kapag naka primera ako.

Then, yung accelerator ko medyo parang may matigas na portion kapag dinidiinan ko.

Should i also change the spark plugs every time na nag change oil ako?

i am using a mitsubishi lancer 2009 glx m/t cs3.

thanks

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