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SIMOTA AIR FILTER VS. STOCK AIRFILTER

Started by botong09, October 27, 2008, 02:24:07 AM

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botong09

PLEASE HELP ME IF SIMOTA AIR FILTER WILL HELP MORE IN TERMS OF HP?

Conan®


niky

Nope. From experience and from seeing dyno-tests from various sources, at most, you can expect the same bump as changing your stock air filter to a cleaner one.

There's a reason K&N is more expensive... because it actually works. Most of us who buy Simota buy the kit including the stainless tubes, then throw away the filter and buy a K&N head to fit to the tubes. :D

bitmd

Hi Sir niky just a question regarding open elements (simota and/or K&N) Isnt it that Short ram ingest underhood air which equates to loss of power so its better to have it stock than upgrade to SRI. Its kinda confusing someone from the other forums telling K&N lossing power in the dyno... thanks

Conan®

Quote from: bitmd on October 29, 2008, 07:38:39 AM
Hi Sir niky just a question regarding open elements (simota and/or K&N) Isnt it that Short ram ingest underhood air which equates to loss of power so its better to have it stock than upgrade to SRI. Its kinda confusing someone from the other forums telling K&N lossing power in the dyno... thanks

You have to make a heat shield that will block off hot air from being ingested directly by the open type air filter. If this is not possible then a "drop-in" filter should be the next option.

popoyn2r

Quote from: botong09 on October 27, 2008, 02:24:07 AM
PLEASE HELP ME IF SIMOTA AIR FILTER WILL HELP MORE IN TERMS OF HP?
yap It gives extra power because your engine can get more air and fuel that gives better combustion
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Conan®

Quote from: popoyn2r on October 29, 2008, 06:03:28 PM
yap It gives extra power because your engine can get more air and fuel that gives better combustion

Changing an air filter "might" get you more air but it definitely won't get you more fuel.

mark_jdmek

k&n drop-in. or try the suggestion above na simota tube tapos k&n cone filter.tapos DIY na heatshield :thumbsup:

niky

Quote from: Conan on October 29, 2008, 08:29:22 AM
You have to make a heat shield that will block off hot air from being ingested directly by the open type air filter. If this is not possible then a "drop-in" filter should be the next option.

Yup.

The loss in power for some dynos is down to the MAF orientation and MAP function. Some cars do not respond well to changes in intake air velocity... as Mass Airflow Sensors (MAF) are sensitive to turbulence. If you have a short-ram, it's best to have the head as far away as possible from the MAF if it's known to be sensitive. I lost 5hp when we experimented with my SRI and moved the filter closer to the MAF. Power which we gained back by moving it further away, again. Putting a mesh filter in front of the MAF also reportedly helps smooth out airflow and give a more consistent reading... but I haven't seen dyno evidence to confirm this.

And some newer cars that have Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensors use this sensor to maintain exact pressure in the intake manifold (some new turbocharged cars have this). These cars will automatically adjust to the new filter and will not benefit from a freer flowing one. This may account for the dynos you've seen with K&N's losing power or making no power. I remember Speedlab saw this with the new Focus TDCi. Intake mods made zilch for power, since the car adapted to them. The only way such cars can see maximum benefit from any kind of mod is through engine management adjustments. Even worse with newer cars that have both MAF and MAP... it gets confusing...

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If you have a common 1.6 or 2 liter four-banger... non-turbo... any intake is better than stock. Yes, a short-ram will run hotter in traffic (sometimes, noticeably so), but with a heat-shield and the proper head, it'll give you a considerable bump over stock.... usually about 5 hp or so.

mark_jdmek

^^ very informative sir.di ko lam ung about sa MAP sensor.hehe.mejo engot ako when it comes to the newer engines...esp. sa mga ford, mitsu, toyota.b-series lang ang alam ko e .hehe

bitmd

Thanks! I remember my college days ( not to long ago   :)) watching illegal drags. I vti with an open element filter would  get inconsistent results.  I guess it all sounds nice when it revs but when the radiator fan turns on and directs hot air into the filter then its all sound and no go. I guess thats why spoon never ditched the airbox in their vehicles. 

here is an interesting link
http://www.planetsoarer.com/dynoday/dyno2.html
http://www.planetsoarer.com/dynoday/dyno3.html

But I guess this one applies to toyotas with AFM but I think the concept is the same.
:)

niky

Well... the problem is that they didn't address the MAF issue and just left it as is.

We already know that just sticking a filter onto the MAF isn't ideal for many cars with MAF/AFMs. You have to give it some distance to smooth out airflow turbulence... that's why it made less power with the filter removed. It's really a case-to-case basis when it comes to changing air-filters.

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