Quote from: CSA-entrepreneur on March 06, 2006, 06:07:03 PM
the resistance ohms is just a wiring gimmick... it wouldnt matter whether its 2 ohm or 4 ohm in terms of performance,,, it would matter in your wiring..

what amp are you looking at. amps (mostly lower class ones) dont really output what they are meant to output..

i had a 1200W max sucky amp before, which a 800W max amp performed better. you dont really have to match the wattage, a little bit more or less would be fine.

also, dont match sucky amps with nice subs or vice versa.

thanks for the reply. my uncle from the US knows people from kicker and he offered to get me an all-kicker setup, so it's a kicker amp

so okay lang to match the 4-ohm power ratings noh?

Wow! pa audition kapag natapos na set-up mo.

heehee   pero walang sub, ayoko na ng sub, it eats up my trunk space so you might not be too impressed  

okay checked out the kicker lineup, so now:

pwede bang amp na 120watts RMS na 4ohms with speakers na 90watts recommended RMS handling na 4ohms? or is that too much for the speakers?

i'm thinking of the zx650.4 but it's quite expensive. he said that the last year's model kx650.4 is at a very good price and is virtually the same. i was reading about it at crutchfield.com and this came up:

Power Output:

   * Input Voltage at 14.4 Volts:
         o 120 watts x 4 into 4 ohms (≤1% THD+N)
         o 170 watts x 4 into 2 ohms (≤1% THD+N)
         o 325 watts x 2 into 4 ohms bridged (≤1% THD+N)
   * Input Voltage at 13.8 Volts:
         o 70 watts x 4 into 4 ohms (0.085% THD+N)
         o 135 watts x 4 into 2 ohms (0.5% THD+N)
         o 250 watts x 2 into 4 ohms bridged (0.5% THD+N)

SO, what do those input voltages mean? my car's only a toyota corolla 2000 GLi, will i be able to give it 14.4 Volts?

i was also checking out what wiring i need for the amp. should i get 8-gauge wiring or 4-gauge?

Quote from: soccerjoe5 on March 07, 2006, 01:53:28 AM
okay checked out the kicker lineup, so now:

pwede bang amp na 120watts RMS na 4ohms with speakers na 90watts recommended RMS handling na 4ohms? or is that too much for the speakers?

i'm thinking of the zx650.4 but it's quite expensive. he said that the last year's model kx650.4 is at a very good price and is virtually the same. i was reading about it at crutchfield.com and this came up:

Power Output:

   * Input Voltage at 14.4 Volts:
         o 120 watts x 4 into 4 ohms (≤1% THD+N)
         o 170 watts x 4 into 2 ohms (≤1% THD+N)
         o 325 watts x 2 into 4 ohms bridged (≤1% THD+N)
   * Input Voltage at 13.8 Volts:
         o 70 watts x 4 into 4 ohms (0.085% THD+N)
         o 135 watts x 4 into 2 ohms (0.5% THD+N)
         o 250 watts x 2 into 4 ohms bridged (0.5% THD+N)

SO, what do those input voltages mean? my car's only a toyota corolla 2000 GLi, will i be able to give it 14.4 Volts?

Using a 120Wrms per chan amp to feed a 90WRMS per chan (at the same 4 Ohm Impedance) is ok, just watch your gain. Go easy on the gain setting.

While your amps published rating is 120WRMS, it is not necessarily the wattage that goes to your speakers. I suppose your Amp is a class AB amplifier. Class AB amps are relatively inefficient (except a few more expensive ones). Most Class AB Amps have an efficiency rating of only about 60 to 65%, that is only about 60 to 65% of the supposed 120WRMS gets to be thrown to your speakers.  Where does all the power go? Heat. Class AB amps get hot easily.  A Class D amp is  more efficient and have an efficiency rating of up to 85%.

Another thing to consider is the speaker wire impedance. Power are also lost as it goes through your wires.

So i guess, baka swak yang amp mo for your speakers.

(I use a 80WRMS 3Ohm speakers powered by a 75WRMS per chan at 4Ohm amp. Its a class D with an efficiency of 85% (per review of Car and Audio Mag)  Note that my speaker has impedance of 3OHms...so it gets more power from the amp.)

As to the voltage, if your car engine is not running, your battery should be giving out about 12V. When your engine is up and running, the voltage is about 13.8 to 14 volts. There is  theoretically an improvement in the sound quality of your system, but chances are you wont be able to detect it as the engine and road noise, plus vibrations, may cancel any perceptable improvement.

Quote from: CSA-entrepreneur on March 06, 2006, 06:07:03 PM
the resistance ohms is just a wiring gimmick... it wouldnt matter whether its 2 ohm or 4 ohm in terms of performance,,, it would matter in your wiring..

what amp are you looking at. amps (mostly lower class ones) dont really output what they are meant to output..

i had a 1200W max sucky amp before, which a 800W max amp performed better. you dont really have to match the wattage, a little bit more or less would be fine.

also, dont match sucky amps with nice subs or vice versa.

Thats true. Some amps   give less power than what is published (i.e., overrated). But note that  some brands, especially the reputable ones, also underrate their amps. Meaning they publish a lower rating than what the amps actually give.  Buy amps that have the "CEA" seal.  CEA compliant brands follow the CEA rules on publishing amp ratings. Be wary of fakes and those cheap amps that have no CEA certications.

As to underrating....well take for example an Alto Mobile ADP 102. Its rated at 50WRMS X 2. When it was tested by Car and Audio Magazine, it gave out around 70WRMS.

HTH>

thanks for the great replies. indeed it is a class AB amp. i know that they're better than class A in efficiency and are a great trade-off in efficiency, reliability and low distortion. class D amps naman tend to have more distortion, kaya perfect pang sub kasi di naman nadedetect sa low frequencies.

oh and about the wiring, i checked out www.crutchfield.com and they recommended these for the amp:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-PdFwdE4iOc9/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=711&id=essential_info&i=211PS4RI#Tab

please check it out if you can

for the wiring, i suggest that you use 4awg wires minimum for the power and ground wires. for the speaker wires, at least 14awg wires or thicker.

Quote from: soccerjoe5 on March 07, 2006, 03:28:25 PM
thanks for the great replies. indeed it is a class AB amp. i know that they're better than class A in efficiency and are a great trade-off in efficiency, reliability and low distortion. class D amps naman tend to have more distortion, kaya perfect pang sub kasi di naman nadedetect sa low frequencies.

Class D amps, while efficient are usually slow when it comes to high frequencies. Thats why they are usually relegated to subfrequency chores.

Note however that of late, a number of Amp makers have improved the high frequency handling of Class D amps. There new Class D amps that are full range. Ive compared one of these full range amps and it was drastically better than  the original alpine AB amp that i was using before.

Quote from: Deckard on March 08, 2006, 08:21:54 AM
Class D amps, while efficient are usually slow when it comes to high frequencies. Thats why they are usually relegated to subfrequency chores.

Note however that of late, a number of Amp makers have improved the high frequency handling of Class D amps. There new Class D amps that are full range. Ive compared one of these full range amps and it was drastically better than  the original alpine AB amp that i was using before.

you're using a class D amp to run your speakers/seps? how many channels? can you tell me more about it?

Quote from: soccerjoe5 on March 08, 2006, 03:54:21 PM
you're using a class D amp to run your speakers/seps? how many channels? can you tell me more about it?

Yup. Am using a full range Class D amp to power my Peerless Def.