Quote from: Accord GTR on August 22, 2005, 11:37:25 PM
Theoretically, if you could reduce your inlet temp to match the outside temp, you could see gains as much as 20-30hp from stock!  

good in theory but i don't think it's applicable in the real world. there are too many other factors to consider.

Quote from: Conan on August 24, 2005, 09:50:40 AM
Actually I've melted the rubber parts of both ARC and K&N filter in the past. I just found out that a replacement ARC filter is 6,000 bucks! The new HKS filter is fine, I wanted a dry type filter to see if this would keep my turbo clean compared to the "wet" type K&N filter.

hks has released it's new 'blue' filters that are now triple layer dry-type filters...

unfortunately they only come in the k20 series applications for the US rsx and si (ep3)...

i've been looking for this na for quite sometime...

that's a nice heatshield mr. samurai rex. at least it was made by a ralliart engineer... can't go wrong with that.

andrew_borly and FlyLO

thanks for the compliments.

FlyLO,
a more high res pic - sorta  

"But your engine is now running leaner, meaning the air-to-fuel ratio or AFR is now less than what the factory wanted it to be."

quote ko lang from the ACCORD GTR's post.
correct me if im wrong pero di ba dapat "the AFR is now GREATER than what the factory wanted it to be"
kasi since there's more air then air to fuel ratio will increase, tama ba?

saka isn't the ECU capable of detecting (through the oxygen or airspeed sensor ata un) na there's more air coming in so increase nya rin fuel intake to compensate?
tnx in advance for the clarification

Quote from: andrew_borly on August 24, 2005, 10:06:03 PM
hks has released it's new 'blue' filters that are now triple layer dry-type filters...

Blue filter foam elements should be available soon then shouldn't it?

Quote from: Conan on August 25, 2005, 07:03:32 AM
Blue filter foam elements should be available soon then shouldn't it?

i sure hope so. compared to our two layer filter element, it says in some of the US sites, that this has way better filtration... hehe, if wala pa rin by the time my green one goes dirty, then ill get the yellow one muna haha

but i must admit, getting that open type filter was a good investment.

Quote from: kenet_3 on August 24, 2005, 10:20:27 PM
"But your engine is now running leaner, meaning the air-to-fuel ratio or AFR is now less than what the factory wanted it to be."

quote ko lang from the ACCORD GTR's post.
correct me if im wrong pero di ba dapat "the AFR is now GREATER than what the factory wanted it to be"
kasi since there's more air then air to fuel ratio will increase, tama ba?

saka isn't the ECU capable of detecting (through the oxygen or airspeed sensor ata un) na there's more air coming in so increase nya rin fuel intake to compensate?
tnx in advance for the clarification

yes, your right in your correction.  thanks

The stock O2 sensor is a "narrow-band" type.   They are designed to detect whether an engine is close to stoichiometric AFR or 14.7, typically able to read between 12.5-16 but their response time is slower than the wide-band O2 sensor that are used in your typical emmissions monitoring shop or the Autoplus' dyno.  

The factory ECU does use these sensors to detect a rich or lean condition and compensate with fuel but it can only do it to a certain extent.   The system is mainly designed to compensate for varying conditions in weather and gasoline quality.   These are much smaller in variation compared to the change in mixture you get by modifying your engine with a I/H/E upgrade.   Also, there will always be some lag before the system can react.   Some I/H/E upgrades can lean the mixture by up to 5%  or more but the factory O2 sensor can only compensate maybe +-2%, I think

That's why piggyback or stand-alone systems and dyno-time are needed to tune your engine if you make these changes in an EFI system

When you drive at speed, especially when you have to slow down then speed up again, you'd appreciate the response from the open type filter.

BUT, I'd still caution you from buying it. Why? It makes it hell to drive at noon and even worse when you get stuck in traffic. By the time you get out of it you'll notice the car can't accelerate and empty taxis are faster than you.

Before I never noticed that though 'coz I leave the house at 5AM and go home at around 7PM. Now that I've moved closer to school and go out between classes I noticed that B.S. Stick with the stock intake or at least have some fabricate a new airbox - not simplyu a metal sheet wrapped around the filter, but also connects it to the pipe that originally drew cold air from under the car.

wait... so the stock airbox and filter is better than an open type one?

Quote from: JaNgO on August 28, 2005, 06:04:14 PM
wait... so the stock airbox and filter is better than an open type one?

If you'll compare it to an open type with a heat shield there's no way that stock is better. But if you'll get an open type and it's in a position to suck in all the hot air from the engine then you're better off stock.

Quote from: JaNgO on August 28, 2005, 06:04:14 PM
wait... so the stock airbox and filter is better than an open type one?

jango,

for example the hks smf for 2.0 es civic is facing the driver so i don't know how it can actually suck in effectively... that area is usually hot pa naman...   so conan is correct... stock airbox's are tried and tested for any application unless a more effective aftermarket has been produced.

so if your not racing and just want a little "push"
better go with the aftermaket filter element and retain the stock filter housing?

mga magkano ba ung k&n na filter element lang?
will i be able to feel the difference from all stock setup?
tnx

Quote from: kenet_3 on August 31, 2005, 11:24:26 AM
so if your not racing and just want a little "push"
better go with the aftermaket filter element and retain the stock filter housing?

mga magkano ba ung k&n na filter element lang?
will i be able to feel the difference from all stock setup?
tnx

The K&N element sells between 4-6 thousand. I suggest to also consider HKS intakes. Now as to whether you'll feel a difference, like I said earlier if it's placed where it'll suck in hot air you won't. If it's placed where it'll suck in cool or incoming air then you probably will feel a difference along with a nice induction sound.

mga sirs, im planning to change my simota air filter, but the problem is i dont know what to choose from. wat cud be the best air filter that would gain or add  a "high" hp. tnx

for me it'd be hks, k&n and apexi that's not far from the price range of the simota